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<A MT WITH TME COW ODIUM Iff

By JESSE APPIiEGATE.

(Read before the Oregon Pioneer Association in 1876 ; reprinted from transactions

of that society.)

The migration of a large body of men, women and
children across the continent to Oregon was, in the year
1843, strictly an experiment ; not only in respect to the
members, but to the outfit of the migrating party. Before
that date, two or three missionaries had performed the
journey on horseback, driving a few cows with them,
Three or four wagons drawn by oxen had reached Fort
Hall, on Snake River, but it was the honest opinion of
the most of those who had traveled the route down
Snake River, that no large number of cattle could be
subsisted on its scanty pasturage, or wagons taken over
a country so rugged and mountainous.

The emigrants were also assured that the Sioux would
be much opposed to the passage of so large a body through
their country, and would probably resist it on account of
the emigrants' destroying and frightening away the buffa-
loes, which were then diminishing in numbers.

The migrating body numbered over one thousand
souls, with about one hundred and twenty wagons,
drawn by six-ox teams, averaging about six yokes to the
team, and several thousand loose horses and cattle.

The emigrants first organized and attempted to travel
in one body, but it was soon found that no progress
could be made with a body so cumbrous, and as yet so
3

372 Jesse Applegate.

averse to all* discipline. And at the crossing of the "Big
Blue" it divided into two columns, which traveled in
supporting distance of each other as far as Independence
Rock on the Sweetwater.

From this point, all danger from Indians being over,
the emigrants separated into small parties better suited
to the narrow mountain paths and small pastures in
their front.

Before the division on the Blue River there was some
just cause for discontent in respect to loose cattle. Some
of the emigrants had only their teams, while others had
large herds in addition, which must share the pasture
and be guarded and driven by the whole body. This
discontent had its effect in the division on the Blue.
Those not encumbered with or having but few loose
cattle attached themselves to the light column ; those
having more than four or five cows had of necessity to
join the heavy or cow column. Hence the cow column,
being much larger than the other and much encumbered
with its large herds, had to use greater exertion and ob-
serve a more rigid discipline to keep pace with the more
agile consort. It is with the cow column that I propose
to journey with the reader for a single day.

It is four o'clock A. M. ; the sentinels on duty have
discharged their rifles — the signal that the hours of sleep
are over — and every wagon and tent is pouring forth its
night tenants, and slow-kindling smokes begin largely
to rise and float away in the morning air. Sixty men
start from the corral, spreading as they make through
the vast herd of cattle and horses that make a semicircle
around the encampment, the most distant perhaps two
miles away.

The herders pass to the extreme verge and carefully
examine for trails beyond, to see that none of the ani-
mals have strayed or been stolen during the night. This

17.—" Oregon Buttes,"— taken from South Pass.

With the Cow Column in 1843. 373

morning no trails led beyond the outside animals in
sight, and by 5 o'clock the herders begin to contract the
great, moving circle, and the well-trained animals move
slowly towards camp, clipping here and there a thistle or
a tempting bunch of grass on the way. In about an
hour five thousand animals are close up to the encamp-
ment, and the teamsters are busy selecting their teams
and driving them inside the corral to be yoked. The cor-
ral is a circle one hundred yards deep, formed with
wagons connected strongly with each other ; the wagon
in the rear beiug connected with the wagon in front by
its tongue and ox chains. It is a strong barrier that the
most vicious ox cannot break, and in case of an attack of
the Sioux would be no contemptible intrenchment.

From 6 to 7 o'clock is a busy time ; breakfast is to be
eaten, the tents struck, the wagons loaded and the teams
yoked and brought up in readiness to be attached to their
respective wagons. All know when, at 7' o'clock, the
signal to march sounds, that those not ready to take
their proper places in the line of march must fall into
the dusty rear for the day.

There are sixty wagons. They have been divided
into fifteen divisions or platoons of four wagons each,
and each platoon is entitled to lead in its turn. The
leading platoon today will be the rear one tomorrow,
and will bring up the rear unless some teamster, through
indolence or negligence, has lost his place in the line, and
is condemned to that uncomfortable post. It is within
ten minutes of seven ; the corral but now a strong barri-
cade is everywhere broken, the teams being attached to
the wagons. The women and children have taken their
places in them. The pilot (a borderer who has passed
his life on the verge of civilization and has been chosen
to the post of leader from his knowledge of the savage
and his experience in travel through roadless wastes),

374 Jesse Applegate.

stands ready, in the midst of his pioneers and aids, to
mount and lead the way. Ten or fifteen young men, not
today on duty, form another cluster. They are ready to
start on a buffalo hunt, are well mounted and well armed,
as they need be, for the unfriendly Sioux have driven the
buffalo out of the Platte, and the hunters must ride fifteen
or twenty miles to reach them. The cow drivers are
hastening, as they get ready, to the rear of their charge,
to collect and prepare them for the day's march.

It is on the stroke of seven ; the rush to and fro, the
cracking of whips, the loud command to. oxen, and what
seemed to be the inextricable confusion of the last ten
minutes has ceased. Fortunately every one has been
found and every teamster is at his post. The clear notes
of a trumpet sound in the front ; the pilot and. his guards
mount their horses ; the leading divisions of the wagons
move out of the encampment, and take up the line of
march ; the 'rest fall into their places with the precision
of clock work, until the spot so lately full of life sinks
back into that solitude that seems to reign over the broad
plain and rushing river as the caravan draws its lazy
length towards the distant El Dorado. It is with the
hunters we shall briskly canter towards the bold but
smooth and grassy bluffs that bound the broad valley,
for we are not yet in sight of fche grander but less beau-
tiful scenery (of Chimney Rock, Court House and other
bluffs, so nearly resembling giant castles and palaces),
made by the passage of the Platte through the highlands
near Laramie. We have been traveling briskly for more
than an hour. We have reached the top of the bluff, and
now have turned to view the wonderful panorama spread
before us. To those w T ho have not been on the Platte,
my powers of description are wholly inadequate to con-
vey an idea of the vast extent and grandeur of the picture,
and the rare beauty and distinctness of the detail. No

18.— "STEAMBOAT SPliING" ON THE BANKS OF THE BEAR ItlVEK.

With the Cow Column in 1843. 375

haze or fog obscures objects in the pure and transparent
atmosphere of this lofty region. To those accustomed
only to the murky air of the seaboard, no correct judg-
ment of distance can be formed by sight, and objects
which they think they can reach in a two hours' walk
may be a day's travel away ; and though the evening
air is a better conductor of sound, on the high plain dur-
ing the day the report of the loudest rifle sounds little
louder than the bursting of a cap ; and while the report
can be heard but a few hundred yards, the smoke of the
discharge may be seen for miles. So extended is the
view from the bluff on which the hunters stand, that
the broad river glowing under the morning sun like a
sheet of silver, and the broader emerald valley that
borders it, stretch away in the distance until they nar-
row at almost two points in the horizon, and when first
seen, the vast pile of the Wind River Mountains though
hundreds of miles away, looks clear and distinct as a
white cottage on the plain.

We are full six miles away from the line of march ;
though everything is dwarfed by distance, it is seen dis-
tinctly. The caravan has been about two hours in mo-
tion and is now as widely extended as a prudent regard
for safety will permit. First, near the bank of the shin-
ing river is a company of horsemen ; they seem to have
found an obstruction, for the main body has halted while
three or four ride rapidly along the bank of the creek or
slough. They are hunting, a favorable crossing for the
wagons ; while we look they have succeeded ; it has
apparently required no work to make it passable, for all
but one of the party have passed on, and he has raised
a flag, no doubt a signal to the wagons to steer their
course to where he stands. The leading teamster sees
him, though he is yet two miles off, and steers his course
directly towards him, all the w T agons following in his

376 Jesse Applegate.

track. They (the wagons) form a line three-quarters of
a mile in length ; some of the teamsters ride upon the
front of their wagons, some march beside their teams ;
scattered along the line companies of women are taking
exercise on foot ; they gather bouquets of rare and
beautiful flowers that line the way ; near them stalks a
stately greyhound, or an Irish w r olf dog, apparently
proud of keeping watch and ward over his master's wife
and children. Next comes a band of horses; two or
three men or boys follow them, the docile and sagacious
animals scarce needing this attention, for they have
learned to follow in the rear of the wagons, and know
that at noon they will be allowed to graze and rest.
Their knowledge of time seems as accurate as of the
place they are to occupy in the line, and even a full-
blown thistle will scarce tempt them to straggle or halt
until the dinner hour has arrived. Not so with the
large herd of horned beasts that bring up the rear ;
lazy, selfish and unsocial, it has been a task to get them
in motion, the strong always ready to domineer over the
weak, halt in the front and forbid the weak to pass
them. They seem to move only in the fear of the
driver's whip ; though in the morning, full to repletion,
they have not been driven an hour before their hunger
and thirst seem to indicate a fast of days' duration.
Through all the lo.ng day their greed is never satisfied,
nor their thirst quenched, nor is there a moment of
relaxation of the tedious and vexatious labors of their
drivers, although to all others the march furnishes some
season of relaxation or enjoyment. For the cow-drivers
there is none.

But from the standpoint of the hunters, the vexations
are not apparent ; the crack of whips and loud objurga-
tion are lost in the distance. Nothing of the moving
panorama, smooth and orderly as it appears, has more

19.— "AMERICAN FALLS."

Railroad bridge of the " Oregon Short Line.'

With the Cow Column in 1843. 377

attractions for the eye than that vast square column in
which all colors are mingled, moving here slowly and
there briskly, as impelled by horsemen riding furiously
in front and rear.

But the picture in its grandeur, its wonderful min-
gling of colors and distinctness of detail, is forgotten in
contemplation of the singular people who give it life and
animation. No other race of men with the means at
their command would undertake so great a journey, none
save these could successfully perform it, with no previous
preparation, relying only on the fertility of their own in-
vention to devise the means to overcome each danger and
difficulty as it arose. They have undertaken to perform
with slow-moving oxen a journey of two thousand miles.
The way lies over trackless wastes, wide and deep rivers,
ragged and lofty mountains, and is beset with hostile
savages. Yet, whether it were a deep river with no tree
upon its banks, a rugged defile where even a loose horse
could not pass, a hill too steep for him to climb, or a
threatened attack of an enemy, they are always found
ready and equal to the occasion, and always conquerors.
May we not call them men of destiny? They are people
changed in no essential particulars from their ancestors,
who have followed closely on the footsteps of the reced-
ing savage, from the Atlantic seaboard to the great Valley
of the Mississippi.

But while we have been gazing at the picture in the
valley, the hunters have been examining the high plain
in the other direction. Some dark moving objects have
been discovered in the distance, and all are closely watch-
ing them to discover what they are, for in the atmosphere
of the plains a flock of crows marching miles away, or a
band of buffaloes or Indians at ten times the distance
look alike, and many ludicrous mistakes occur. But
these are buffaloes, for two have struck their heads to-

378 Jesse Applegate.

gether and are, alternately, pushing each other back.
The hunters mount and away in pursuit, and I, a poor
cow-driver, must hurry back to my daily toil, and take
a scolding from my fellow herders for so long playing
truant.

The pilot, by measuring the ground and timing the
speed of the wagons and the walk of his horses, has de-
termined the rate of each, so as to enable him to select
the nooning place, as nearly as the requisite grass and
water can be had at the end of five hours' travel of the
wagons. Today, the ground being favorable, little time
has been lost in preparing the road, so that he and his
pioneers are at the nooning place an hour in advance of
the wagons, w T hich time is spent in preparing convenient
watering places for the animals, and digging little wells
near the bank of the Platte, as the teams are not unyoked,
but simply turned loose from the wagons, a corral is not
formed at noon, but the wagons are drawn up in columns,
four abreast, the leading wagon of each platoon on the
left, the platoons being formed with that in view. This
brings friends together at noon as well as at night.

Today an extra session of the council is being held,
to settle a dispute that does not admit of delay, between
a proprietor and a young man who has undertaken to do
a man's service on the journey for bed and board. Many
such engagements exist, and much interest is taken in
the manner in which this high court, from which there
is no appeal, will define the rights of each party in such
engagements. The council was a high court in the most
exalted sense. It was a senate composed of the ablest
and most respected fathers of the emigration. It exer-
cised both legislative and judicial powers, and its laws
and decisions proved it equal and worthy of the high
trust reposed in it. Its sessions were usually held on
days when the caravan was not moving. It first took the

20.— Near summit of Blue Mountains— Meacham Station of O. R. & N. R. R.
on the Trail, and site of " Lee Encampment."

With the Cow Column in 1843. 379

state of the little commonwealth into consideration ; re-
vised or repealed rules defective or obsolete, and enacted
such others as the exigencies seemed to require. The
common weal being cared for, it next resolved itself into
a court to hear and settle private disputes and griev-
ances. The offender and the aggrieved appeared before
it ; witnesses were examined, and the parties were heard
by themselves and sometimes by counsel. The judges
being thus made fully acquainted with the case, and be-
ing in no way influenced or cramped by technicalities,
decided all cases according to their merits. There was
but little use for lawyers before this court, for no plea
was entertained which was calculated to hinder or defeat
the ends of justice. Many of these judges have since
won honors in higher spheres. They have aided to estab-
lish on the broad basis of right and universal liberty two
pillars of our great Republic in the Occident. Some of
the young men who appeared before them as advocates
have themselves sat upon the highest judicial tribunals,
commanded armies, been governors of states and taken
high position in the senate of the nation.

It is now one o'clock ; the bugle has sounded and the
caravan has resumed its westward journey. It is in the
same order, but the evening is far less animated than
the morning march ; a drowsiness has fallen apparently
on man and beast ; teamsters drop asleep on their
perches and even when walking by their teams, and the
words of command are now addressed to the slowly
creeping oxen in the soft tenor of women or the piping
treble of children, while the snores of the teamsters
make a droning accompaniment. But a little incident
breaks the monotony of the march. An emigrant's wife,
whose state of health has caused Doctor Whitman to
travel near the wagon for the day, is now taken with
violent illness. The Doctor has had the wagon driven

380 Jesse Applegate.

out of the line, a tent pitched and a fire kindled. Many
conjectures are hazarded in regard to this mysterious
proceeding, and as to why this lone wagon is to be left
behind. And we too must leave it, hasten to the front
and note the proceedings, for the sun is now getting low
in the west and at length the painstaking pilot is stand-
ing ready to conduct the train in the circle which he has
previously measured and marked out, which is to form
the invariable fortification for the night. The leading
wagons follow him so nearly around the circle that but
a wagon length separates them. Each wagon follows
in its track, the rear closing on the front, until its tongue
and ox-chains will perfectly reach from one to the other,
and so accurate the measure and perfect the practice,
that the hindmost wagon of the train always precisely
closes the gateway, as each wagon is brought into posi-
tion. It is dropped from its team ( the teams being in-
side the circle ) , the team unyoked and the yokes and
chains are used to connect the wagon strongly with that
in its front. Within ten minutes from the time the lead-
ing wagon halted, the barricade is formed, the teams
unyoked and driven out to pasture. Every one is busy
preparing fires of buffalo chips to cook the evening
meal, pitching tents and otherwise preparing for the
night. There are anxious watchers for the absent wag-
on, for there are many matrons who may be afflicted
like its inmate before the journey is over ; and they fear
the strange and startling practice of this Oregon doctor
will be dangerous. But as the sun goes down the ab-
sent wagon rolls into camp, the bright, speaking face
and cheery look of the doctor, who rides in advance, de-
clare without words that all is well, and both mother
and child are comfortable. I would fain now and here
pay a passing tribute to that noble and devoted man,
Doctor Whitman. I will obtrude no other name upon

21.— Falls of the Willamette— the objective point of the pioneers.

With the Cow Column in 1843. 381

the reader, nor would I his were he of our party or even
living, but his stay with us was transient, though the
good he did was permanent, and he has long since died
at his post.

From the time he joined us on the Platte until he
left us at Fort Hall, his great experience and indomit-
able energy were of priceless value to the migrating
column. His constant advice, which we knew was based
upon a knowledge of the road before us, was, ' 'Travel,
travel, travel ; nothing else will take you to the end of
your journey ; nothing is wise that does not help you
along ; nothing is good for you that causes a moment's
delay." His great authority as a physician and com-
plete success in the case above referred to, saved us
many prolonged and perhaps ruinous delays from simi-
lar causes, and it is no disparagement to others to say
that to no other individual are the emigrants of 1843 so
much indebted for the successful conclusion of their
journey as to Dr. Marcus Whitman.

All able to bear arms in the party have been formed
into three companies, and each of these into four watches ;
every third night it is the duty of one of these companies
to keep watch and ward over the camp, and it is so ar-
ranged that each w^atch takes its turn of guard duty
through the different w^atches of the night. Those form-
ing the first watch tonight will be second on duty, then
third and fourth, which brings them through all the
watches of the night. They begin at 8 o'clock P. M.,
and end at 4 o'clock A. M.

It is not yet 8 o'clock when the first watch is to be
set ; the evening meal is just over, and the corral now
free from the intrusion of cattle or horses, groups of
children are scattered over it. The larger are taking a
game of romps; "the wee toddling things" are being
taught that great achievement that distinguishes man

382 Jesse Applegate.

from the lower animals. Before a tent near the river a
violin makes lively music, and some youths and maidens
have improvised a dance upon the green ; in another
quarter a flute gives its mellow and melancholy notes to
the still night air, which, as they float away over the
quiet river, seem a lament for the past rather than a
hope for the future. It has been a prosperous day ;
more than twenty miles have been accomplished of the
great journey. The encampment is a good one ; one of
the causes that threatened much future delay has just
been removed by the skill and energy of that "good
angel" of the emigrants, Doctor Whitman, and it has
lifted a load from the hearts of the elders. Many of
these are assembled around the good doctor at the tent
of the pilot (which is his home for the time being), and
are giving grave attention to his wise and energetic
counsel. The care-worn pilot sits aloof, quietly smok-
ing his pipe, for he knows the brave doctor is "strength-
ening his hands."

But time passes ; the watch is set for the night ; the
council of old men has been broken up, and each has re-
turned to his own quarter ; the flute has whispered its
last lament to the deepening night ; the violin is silent,
and the dancers have dispersed ; enamored youth have
whispered a tender "good night" in the ear of blushing
maidens, or stolen a kiss from the lips of some future
bride- — for Cupid here, as elsewhere, has been busy bring-
ing together congenial hearts, and among these simple
people he alone is consulted in forming the marriage tie.
Even the doctor and the pilot have finished their confi-
dential interview and have separated for the night. All
is hushed and repose from. the fatigues of the day, save
the vigilant guard and the wakeful leader, who still has
cares upon his mind that forbid sleep. He hears the 10
o'clock relief taking post and the "all well" report of the

22,—The Union Pacific Building, Omaha,— site of one of the "jumping off"
points for Oregon.

With the Cow Column in 1843. 383

returned guard ; the night deepens, yet he seeks not the
needed repose. At length a sentinel hurries to him with
the welcome report that a party is approaching — as yet
too far away for its character to be determined, and he
instantly hurries out in the direction in which it was
seen. This he does both from inclination and duty, for
in times past the camp had been unnecessarily alarmed
by timid or inexperienced sentinels, causing much con-
fusion and fright amongst women and children, and it
had been a rule that all extraordinary incidents of the
night should be reported directly to the pilot, who alone
had the authority to call out the military strength of the
column, or of so much of it as was in his judgment neces-
sary to prevent a stampede or repel an enemy. Tonight
he is at no loss to determine that the approaching party
are our missing hunters, and that they have met with
success, and he only waits until by some further signal
he can know that no ill has happened to them. This is
not long wanting. He does not even await their arrival,
but the last care of the day being removed, and the last
duty performed, he too seeks the rest that will enable
him to go through the same routine tomorrow. But here
I leave him, for my task is also done, and unlike his, it
is to be repeated no more.